Sunday, July 7, 2024

Van Cleef & Arpels Releases Comprehensive Historical Book on Fine Jewelry

Paris, France—Van Cleef & Arpels has unveiled a new book detailing its history, craftsmanship, and fine jewelry. Volume 1 of “The Van Cleef & Arpels Collection (1906-1953)” debuts on June 24 during Paris Couture Week. This extensive volume includes nearly 700 pieces of jewelry, precious objects, and watchmaking artifacts, along with 200 archival documents, organized for their historic, artistic, and cultural significance.

The book covers three pivotal chapters in Van Cleef & Arpels’ history: the creative surge from 1906 to 1925, the establishment of its unique identity from 1926 to 1937, and its expansion from Paris to New York between 1938 and 1953. The Maison aims to elevate jewelry to the status of decorative arts, a long-term goal articulated by Nicolas Bos, president and CEO of Van Cleef & Arpels.

The first volume’s release is part of a larger effort, with a second volume, covering 1954 to 2000, expected in 2026 or 2027. Published by Atelier EXB, the book is available in both French and English, with a digital version accessible for free online. The content will be updated as the Maison acquires new pieces.

“The dates chosen for the two books correspond to pivotal moments in the history of the Maison,” Bos explained in an email interview. “1906 marks the opening of our first boutique at 22 Place Vendôme in Paris. The year 1954 is significant for the launch of the la boutique concept.”

Van Cleef & Arpels aimed to attract a younger clientele with their Place Vendôme space, creating personalized jewelry based on ornamental stones and gold craftsmanship. These were the first limited edition pieces designed for daily wear.

A significant aspect of this project was photographing the entire collection. “We wanted the illustrative record to be exhaustive: optimal picture quality, harmonious visual images, pieces photographed from different angles,” Bos said. “Visually, we have treated this book like the catalogue of an exhibition where jewelry creations and archival material complement each other.”

The cover features the 1936 Van Cleef & Arpels Flower brooch, chosen for its representation of a crucial transition in the Maison’s history. It is the oldest example of the Mystery Set in their collection, a technique patented in 1933 and adapted to three-dimensional shapes by 1935.

“Aesthetically, its two superimposed leaves reflect the floral illustrations of the time,” Bos noted. “The creation displays certain Art Deco characteristics—like the geometric lines of its lower motif—while the upper leaf’s simplified curves herald future stylistic developments. The naturalism of the latter motif is a result of the Mystery Set technique, which makes the underlying metal structure invisible. This brooch, created the same year, is one of the first examples of this groundbreaking development.”

Van Cleef & Arpels continues to honor its rich heritage while looking forward to future innovations in fine jewelry.

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