A remarkable advancement in gemstone production has been made at the University of the West of England (UWE) in Bristol, where lecturer Sofie Boons has successfully cultivated a full-size ruby embedded within a platinum jewelry setting. This pioneering technique is believed to be a world-first, employing a unique chemical method that facilitates the growth of the gem while it remains in its mounting.
Sofie Boons, a senior lecturer and jewelry design researcher, began her project with a small ruby fragment, or “seed,” obtained from gemstone waste offcuts. By positioning this seed within a platinum ring and using a chemical agent known as “flux,” Boons was able to lower the temperature necessary for ruby growth. This novel approach allows the gem to form directly in its setting, an accomplishment UWE claims has not been achieved previously.
Unlike traditional gemstones, which often require significant energy and may involve unsustainable mining practices, Boons’ technique offers a more eco-friendly option. The ruby-growing process takes place in a furnace and can be completed in just a few days, using only five hours of energy. “I am experimenting with growth times ranging from five to 50 hours,” Boons explained, noting that longer durations produce larger and clearer crystals.
Boons emphasized that her innovative method challenges the prevailing perception of lab-grown gemstones as mere synthetic imitations. “The slightly unpredictable growth features natural facets, which I find fascinating as a jewelry maker,” she stated. This fresh perspective may alter consumer attitudes towards the value of lab-grown stones, presenting them as affordable and environmentally responsible alternatives to mined gemstones.
The project, part of Boons’ PhD work, has received additional funding from UWE and will expand in collaboration with the University of Bristol. This partnership aims to explore the potential for growing various types of gemstones, which could transform the jewelry industry and promote more sustainable practices.
Bristol-based contemporary jewelry designer Rebecca Enderby commented on the evolving perceptions of lab-grown stones: “These lab-grown gemstones are not artificial; they replicate what forms over thousands of years in the earth, making them a more accessible alternative to mined stones.” She also underscored the importance of utilizing green energy sources in their production, noting that while lab-grown gemstones are generally more sustainable, the energy used should ideally be derived from renewable providers.
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